Genealogy Roadtrip to Voyageurs National Park - Part IV

Day Four

On the morning of final day of Voyageur’s National Park trip I checked out of my hotel, and headed out before daylight.  I had most of a day to do some last minute sight-seeing in the park and International Falls. I decided to drive to Rainy Lake to watch the sunrise and maybe see some wildlife.

The whitetail deer in the area tend to hangout in populated areas around visitor centers and lodges.  I think I saw about 30 deer during the first hour of sunlight.  One local resident told me he believes the deer stay near people to avoid wolves in the area.

Driving slowly in the park gave me plenty of time to reflect on my Genealogy Roadtrip.  

For nearly two years I had given serious thought to this trip before making a commitment.  The online pictures of the area suggested that the park was more committed to family vacations and house boating than to preserving wilderness and voyageur history.

I seriously considered driving my motorhome and towing my 14’ Old Town Hunter Canoe, but the 4500 mile roundtrip would have taken at least six days if I could average 750 miles/day.  That’s a tall order for an old guy.  

As it turned out I really regret not having driven.  I never actually got to paddle a canoe anywhere in Voyageur’s National Park because of the discourteous and lackadaisical attitude of outfitters and lodge employees.  

In the end I had a lot of disappointments during the trip, and the sad truth is that America, its parks, and its people have become progressively worse during the past couple of decades.

Sadly, there is also a lack of respect and recognition for the knowledge and experience of older citizens.  America has become an increasingly toxic place for ‘Old Gringos.’

The cold, rainy, and dark last morning of my visit to Rainy Lake pretty much summed up my experience of the place.

On the positive side the boreal forest is always beautiful, and little glimpses of its treasures made the trip somewhat worthwhile for me.

I had one more place to visit in International Falls, so I bid ado to Voyageur’s National Park, and set a course for the Koochiching County Historical Museum where I hoped to learn more about the history of the area.

The Koochiching County Historical Museum was definitely not a disappointment.  There I met Edgar Oerichbauer the longtime curator and director of the museum, and found a kindred spirit who shares my reverence for fur trade and voyageur history.  

When I told Edgar about my gift of a copy of my 4th great-grandfather’s voyageur contract to the park ranger, and the ranger’s distinct lack of enthusiasm about my gift, he said, "I wish you’d given it to us instead."  When I got home I emailed him copies of several voyageur engagement contracts for my ancestors.

Finally,  I drove down to Rainy River for one last look before heading out to the airport.  I stood on the bank trying to imagine what this area was like 200 years ago when my voyageur ancestors passed through.

Chippewa Indian encampment on Rainy River c. 1915

My Voyageur’s National Park YouTube video... https://youtu.be/B2NPANdZaGU

You can learn more about my voyageur ancestors here:

Rene Bourassa dit LaRonde (6th great-uncle) https://a-drifting-cowboy.blogspot.com/2015/08/great-uncle-rene-was-coureurs-des-bois.html

Charles Boyer (8th great-uncle) http://laprairie-voyageur-canoes.blogspot.com/2017/03/ripples-from-la-prairie-voyageur-canoes_62.html

Charles Mignier dit Lagace (6th great-uncle) https://a-drifting-cowboy.blogspot.com/2016/08/uncle-charles-lagasse-on-columbia.html

Charles Boyer Jr. (1st cousin 8x removed) https://a-drifting-cowboy.blogspot.com/2016/06/cousin-charles-boyer-was-norwester.html

François Rivet (2nd cousin 7x removed) https://a-drifting-cowboy.blogspot.com/2016/08/cousin-francois-rivet-mountain-man.html

Pierre Pinsonneau (5th great-uncle) https://a-drifting-cowboy.blogspot.com/2016/08/uncle-pierre-norwester-goes-to-portage.html

Signed by company rep. Alex MacKinzie

Joseph Vielle dit Cosse (5th great-uncle) https://a-drifting-cowboy.blogspot.com/2016/08/great-uncle-joseph-nwc-voyageur-who.html

Andre Mignier dit Lagace (1st cousin 6x removed) https://a-drifting-cowboy.blogspot.com/2016/08/cousin-andre-lagasse-was-interpreter.html

Michel Vielle dit Cossé (5th great-uncle) http://laprairie-voyageur-canoes.blogspot.com/2017/03/ripples-chapter-three-vielle-family.html

Francois Pinsonneau (5th great-uncle) http://laprairie-voyageur-canoes.blogspot.com/2017/03/ripples-chapter-three-pinsonneau-family.html

Jean-Baptiste Meunier dit Lagace (4th great-grandfather) https://a-drifting-cowboy.blogspot.com/2017/01/great-grandfather-canoes-to-lac-le-pluie.html

THE TRIP:

Genealogy Roadtrip to Voyageurs National Park - Goals

http://laprairie-voyageur-canoes.blogspot.com/2018/08/genealogy-roadtrip-to-voyageurs.html

Genealogy Roadtrip to Voyageurs National Park - Part II

http://laprairie-voyageur-canoes.blogspot.com/2018/10/genealogy-roadtrip-to-voyageurs.html

Genealogy Roadtrip to Voyageurs National Park - Part III

http://laprairie-voyageur-canoes.blogspot.com/2018/10/genealogy-roadtrip-to-voyageurs_2.html

Genealogy Roadtrip to Voyageurs National Park - Part IV

http://laprairie-voyageur-canoes.blogspot.com/2018/10/genealogy-roadtrip-to-voyageurs_5.html

3 1/2 min. YouTube Video... 'Visiting Voyageur Ancestor Spirits'

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2NPANdZaGU

OUR ANCESTORS:

LaPrairie Voyageur Canoes...
http://laprairie-voyageur-canoes.blogspot.com/2017/10/ripples-from-la-prairie-voyageur-canoes.html

Genealogy Roadtrip to Voyageurs National Park - Part III

Day Three

The weather forecast was 60+ percent rain with possible snow flurries, so a two hundred mile roundtrip drive to Lake of the Woods seemed like a good way to spend a day, and see some new country.

The highway between International Falls (or Fort Frances) and Lake of the Woods basically parallels the 85 mile long Rainy River. The river flows west northwest from Rainy Lake (French: lac à la Pluie) to Lake of the Woods (Ojibwe: Couchiching), and is the international boundary between the United States and Canada along the Minnesota/Ontario border.

Rainy River has a lengthy fur trade history, and in over more than a hundred year span it was home to trading posts for the French, the North West Company, the American Fur Company, and the Hudson’s Bay Company. Several of my French-Canadian voyageur ancestors paddled its course.

The drive from International Falls to Warroad on the American side of the river is just about 100 miles. The scenery is a delightful mix of boreal forest and well maintained small farms as you can see in this vintage postcard of Baudette, Minnesota. Everything in late September is green with a hint of the yellow-orange fall colors.

There are two border crossings (international bridges) on the river, one at International Falls, and a second at Baudette, Minnesota.

A hundred years ago steamboats regularly ran between Rainy Lake and Lake of the Woods. I wonder if anyone ever fished from one because Rainy River offers one of the best walleye and sturgeon fisheries in all of North America. A prehistoric monster sturgeon, can sometimes exceed 100 lbs!

They claim, when spring fishing begins at first ice out, it is not uncommon for a fishermen to catch multiple trophy walleyes in a single day. Baudette even brags about their walleye population with this amazing sculpture.

When I arrived at Warroad, Minnesota, I took the well marked road to Lake of the Woods. As expected the lake is enormous and the stormy weather caused everything to blend in shades of gray.

About Warroad from https://visitwarroad.com/history/:

Warroad was once one of the largest Chippewa villages on Lake of the Woods.  The Chippewa fought a long and fierce war against the Sioux for the lake’s rice fields.  Occupying the prairies of the Red River Valley, the Sioux would frequently invade the territory by way of the Red and Roseau Rivers, a route which ended at the mouth of the Warroad River.  This was the old “war road” from which the river and village derived their name.

Near the Warroad Fishing Pier on the Lake of the Woods I was both surprised and delighted to find a marker about Fort St. Charles established in 1732, by Pierre Gaultier de Varennes, Sieur de La Verendrye, explorer and leader of a fur brigade which Rene Bourassa (my 7th Grand-Uncle) was part of.

After debating with myself, long and hard, I decided to cross into Canada at Baudette. I really wasn’t looking forward to more harassment by the CBP, but as an American I refuse to be intimidated by a few misguided young thugs. Hopefully what happened at the border two days before was a fluke and today would bring a better outcome.

At the international bridge between Fort Frances and International Falls I once again came to the CBP checkpoint. This time I encountered another young officer, but this one had a thick foreign accent. Perhaps I thought to myself this will go better. It didn’t — he grilled me with a suspicious countenance, and I’m sure he was about to detain and search me when another young officer from two days earlier walked in. I asked him if he remembered me, and after a quick confab, I was waived through. The bitter taste of my CBP treatment will take a longtime to heal.

At Last Storm Clouds Part, and My Luck Returns

After a quick lunch in International Falls I decided to drive out to Rainy Lake, and inquire at a few Lodges if they had a small canoe I could rent for a few hours.

After a couple rejections I encountered an absolutely delightful young woman who is the owner of Island View Lodge on Rainy Lake. She didn’t have any rentals, but after explaining to her my mission of canoeing with the voyageur spirits of my ancestors, she offered to let me borrow a kayak for the afternoon.

I admit I was a little overawed by the kayak. I have canoed all over North America for more than 60 years, but this was my first time in a kayak. It went better than I expected, aside from being harder to get out of, and the constant drip of water on my pants from the double bladed paddle, it was a pleasant ride. I had read the water in Rainy Lake is dark, but to me it was almost black.

At last I was paddling with Grandfather Spirits with breathtaking views of the islands on magnificent Rainy Lake — part of the Vouyageur’s Highway between Montreal and the Athabasca Country — where the best beaver pelts in North America were to be found.

I even made a new friend (below left) who decided to be my guide and act as a pathfinder on my afternoon adventure in Voyageur’s National Park.

au revoir jusqu'à notre prochaine rencontre

Adios, from my pathfinder friend. He's headed south soon.

THE TRIP:

Genealogy Roadtrip to Voyageurs National Park - Goals

http://laprairie-voyageur-canoes.blogspot.com/2018/08/genealogy-roadtrip-to-voyageurs.html

Genealogy Roadtrip to Voyageurs National Park - Part II

http://laprairie-voyageur-canoes.blogspot.com/2018/10/genealogy-roadtrip-to-voyageurs.html

Genealogy Roadtrip to Voyageurs National Park - Part III

http://laprairie-voyageur-canoes.blogspot.com/2018/10/genealogy-roadtrip-to-voyageurs_2.html

Genealogy Roadtrip to Voyageurs National Park - Part IV

http://laprairie-voyageur-canoes.blogspot.com/2018/10/genealogy-roadtrip-to-voyageurs_5.html

Genealogy Roadtrip to Voyageurs National Park - Part II

Day One

I rented a canoe from an International Falls canoe outfitter and planned on spending the early morning hours canoeing Rainy Lake’s Black Bay. My goal was to hopefully hear some Loons in the distance and paddle with the Voyageur Spirits of my ancestors.

Unfortunately everything went wrong…

DELTA AIRLINES lost my baggage containing my canoeing clothes, fishing tackle, lifejacket, and — most important — my water shoes. 

On top of that the canoe outfitter failed to meet my expectations. During the planning stage I exchanged several emails and phone calls with him. I told him I planned to solo, and in an email I made my need and skill level abundantly clear when I wrote:

“I’m a 75 year-old guy with lots of canoeing experience, but my balance isn’t great these days. Once I’m in a canoe, and on the water, I’m pretty competent, but I like the odds in my favor, so I prefer a stable canoe.  

My two personal canoes are an Old Town Pack (length 12’ width 32”) and an Old Town Hunter (length 14’ width 35”).  I’ve also owned an Old Town Discovery 119 (length 12’ width 32.5”) and an Old Town Penobscot (length 16’4” width 37.5”).  I’ve soloed all of them on lakes and rivers (class rapids 2 and less), and I’d be comfortable with something close to any one of these.

To make a long story short… the International Falls canoe outfitter completely screwed up the rental, and provided me with an Old Town Discovery 174. The 174 weighs in at 80+ pounds, and is too long to solo on a windy lake. To make things worse the outfitter blamed me for poor communications.

The canoe outfitter is one of very few canoe rental services on Rainy Lake, and they enjoy a pretty fair reputation, so I recommend you be very careful when communicating with any outfitters in the area.

After a few hours canoeing I planned to visit the Rainy Lake Visitor Center. That went pretty well, but the voyageur display was a little disappointing. Honestly, you’d think the United States government could find enough money to properly present the Voyageur and his accoutrements.

As it turned out — without a canoe — I was finished early, so I decided I’d spend the afternoon in nearby Fort Frances, Ontario, Canada. They have a history museum, and an archives of voyageur materials.

The folks at the Fort Frances museum were extremely pleasant, and spent lots of time answering my questions. They also suggested a visit to the town’s “La Verendrye Parkway,” a river walk along Rainy River.

Late in the afternoon I headed back to the good old USA, looking forward to a nice dinner and a good bed. When I crossed the border I encountered a Customs and Border Protection (CBP) checkpoint. What happened next was one of the worst experiences in my life…

I was asked what business I had in Canada, and when I tried to explain I was on a Genealogy Road Trip celebrating my French-Canadian heritage I was almost immediately directed to park and get out of my rental car. Next my wallet and backpack were searched, and the rental car was thoroughly probed. They detained me for maybe 45 minutes, and when they finished they simply said you can go now.

No apology from the CBP for harassing a 75 year-old man…  I left feeling like a fugitive in my own country.

Later, when I spoke to business owners in International Falls, I learned the treatment was common, and the CBP is not highly regarded by local folks. One business owner told me this treatment from the CBP is a new thing, and may be a generational thing. I thought about the one young officer, who had a thick foreign accent, and I wonder if he even knew what a voyageur was.

Day Two

Voyageur statue at entrance Crane Lake

I woke up thinking things have got to get better today. At least Delta sent my baggage late last evening, so I now had my canoeing clothes.

I drove the 80 miles to Crane Lake where I expected to find a canoe I rented. My plan was to paddle to the Vermilion River inlet, and go upstream as far as I could paddle looking for the logical location of Rene Bourassa’s 1736 trading post (my 7th Grand-Uncle).

More bad luck. No canoe was waiting for me, so I was forced to rent a boat. It might have been a good thing as the wind was fairly stiff, and it would have been a hard paddle to the mouth of the river.

About a 150 yards below the first set of rapids the river widened revealing a beautiful cove with a fairly flat bench in the trees beyond. If I was a fur trader this would be the location I would select to erect a palisade and build a store house. 

I’ll never know for sure, but I believe I located Uncle Rene Bourassa’s 1736 post site (above).

On the way back to International Falls I turned off the main highway and followed a beautiful narrow road that leads five miles back to Vermilion River Falls and Gorge.

It’s a lovely drive with several beaver ponds and lots of spectacular boreal forest views.

The falls and the portage trail around them offer some interesting side hikes with breath taking scenery.

Vermilion River Falls

The actual gorge is a roaring torrent that is reached after a quarter mile uphill stroll, and can be viewed from a series of stairs and bridges.

Driving back to my hotel I decided I had enough time to see Ash River and Kabetogama Lake, so I could do an unplanned trip to Lake of the Woods on Day Three.

On the way into the Ash River Visitor Center there is another short hiking opportunity that leads to a Beaver Pond Overlook. I highly recommend this shady forest trail.

The beaver pond itself appears to be vacated with little suggestion of current beaver activity, but I’m sure it is heavily populated during the nighttime hours by the parks forest dwellers.

The last week in September has always been my favorite time to travel in the North Country, however the National Park Service seems to lack a budget to properly staff visitor’s centers in the fall. It sorta like another park visitor quipped, “Your tax dollars on vacation.” 

At any rate the visitor centers at Ash River and Kabetogama Lake close the third week in September.

Kabetogama Lake certainly lived up to its reputation as a rough and windy place. No place for old men in canoes for sure.

THE TRIP:

Genealogy Roadtrip to Voyageurs National Park - Goals

http://laprairie-voyageur-canoes.blogspot.com/2018/08/genealogy-roadtrip-to-voyageurs.html

Genealogy Roadtrip to Voyageurs National Park - Part II

http://laprairie-voyageur-canoes.blogspot.com/2018/10/genealogy-roadtrip-to-voyageurs.html

Genealogy Roadtrip to Voyageurs National Park - Part III

http://laprairie-voyageur-canoes.blogspot.com/2018/10/genealogy-roadtrip-to-voyageurs_2.html

Genealogy Roadtrip to Voyageurs National Park - Part IV

http://laprairie-voyageur-canoes.blogspot.com/2018/10/genealogy-roadtrip-to-voyageurs_5.html